Hi ForRent.com readers, Monica and Jess here from East Coast Creative. We’re so excited to share with you the four winning projects of our design contest, “Creating with the Stars.” All of our contestants worked really hard on their projects; some even stayed up all night to finish them! Our first round winner of the Knock Off round was Jaime from That’s My Letter – this woman has crazy talent, y’all! Without further ado, we give you Jaime’s incredible DIY Sliding Barn Door Console.
This DIY sliding barn door console was my knock off project submission for week one of Creating with the Stars, and it took first place!
You can build it, too, and for a fraction of the retail cost.
My DIY build was inspired by Sundance Catalog’s Yorkville Sliding Door Console:
The retail version above sells for $2500 plus $400 shipping – yikes! I’ll show you how to make your own DIY Sliding Barn Door Console for only $300!
The sliding barn door hardware consists of fairly simple pieces you can find at any big home improvement store – aluminum bars with 1 1/2″ pulley wheels.
How to build a sliding barn door console:
Lumber cuts:
Carcass:
2 – 3/4″ plywood @ 18 1/4″ x 63 1/2″ (top & bottom)
2 – 3/4″ plywood @ 18 1/4″ x 29 1/4″ (sides)
2 – 3/4″ plywood @ 18 1/4″ x 25″ (dividers)
2 – 3/4″ plywood @ 17 1/2″ x 20 5/8″ (middle shelves)
2 – 3/4″ plywood @ 17 1/2″ x 20 3/4″ (side shelves)
3 – 3/4″ plywood @ 2 3/4″ x 18 1/4″ (base supports from scraps)
Face frame:
2 – 1×2 @ 25 3/4″ (sides)
1 – 1×2 @ 62″ (bottom)
1 – 1×5 @ 62″ (top)
2 – 1×2 @ 20″ (dividers)
2 – 1×2 @ 20 5/8″ (middle shelves trim)
2 – 1×2 @ 20 3/4″ (side shelves trim)
Base moulding:
2 – 1×4 @ 19 1/8″ (sides)
1 – 5/4 x 4 @ 66 1/2″ (front – hidden)
1 – 5/16? @ 66 1/2″ (front)
Top:
2 – 1×6 @ 67″
2 – 1×5 @ 67″
Doors:
8 – 1×6 @ 21″
2 – 1/4″ plywood @ 21″ x 22″
Backing: 1/4″ plywood @ 26″ x 65″
Hardware:
1 1/4″ pocket hole screws
2″ screws
3/4″ screws
1 1/4″ finish nails
Door hardware listed below
1. Build the carcass:
I used my Kreg rip cut to rip down the plywood.
2. Add the shelves.
Work face down and use scrap 1×2 spacers to get perfect placement of the shelf on the front side, no matter if the back is a tiny bit too short.
3. Face frame.
You could build the face frame separately and then attach, but I choose to build it directly on the carcass since I wasn’t following any plans and I needed to be exact in my measurements.
Start with the side 1x2s, then bottom and top, then dividers, then shelf trim.
4. Base molding.
Sides first then front.
5. Top.
Connect boards using pocket holes on underside:
Then glue and clamp top down and attach with countersink screws from inside the console:
6. To build doors, connect 4 boards using pocket holes:
Then secure to 1/4″ backing using 3/4″ screws from back.
7. Sand and tape off face frame for paint.
Prime and paint white high gloss enamel.
8. Stain remaining sections Minwax golden oak.
Door hardware:
1 – 1″ L shape angle aluminum bar x 1/8″ thick x 96″l (base track)
1 – 1″ flat aluminum bar x 1/4″ thick x 96″l (hanging track bar & vertical door bars)
3 – #12 x 2 1/2″ metal screws
3 – 1″ steel spacers
24 – 1/4″ washers
7 – 1/4″ hex nuts
4 – #12 x 1 1/2″ metal screws
8 – #12 x 3/4″ metal screws
Cut list:
1 – L shape aluminum bar @ 60″l (base track)
1 – flat aluminum bar @ 62″l (hanging track bar)
4 – flat aluminum bar @ 8 1/2″l (vertical door bars)
1. Cut the bar pieces as listed above.
This will not be fun.
Be sure to smooth any sharp edges.
I used a combination of a coping saw, dremel drill, metal rasp and steel wool.
2. You need to remove the pulley wheel from inside the pulley mechanism:
Again, this will not be fun. I used my dremel to slice off the center ‘button’ on both sides of pulley, then clamped it down and hammered away at the center pin using an old drill bit:
Tip: the pin will come out faster if the metal is cold (put the pulley in the freezer).
3. Spray paint all the metal pieces (I choose not to paint the screws & washers) using oil rubbed bronze:
4. Attach the base track first.
Center track and set the door in the track to be sure you have enough sliding space.
Pre-drill and use 2″ wood screws down into base molding:
5. Attach the hanging track 1.75″ from top.
Mark the face frame and pre-drill holes all the way through the frame:
Set up the hardware in the order below:
Then secure the track to the face frame:
6. Secure pulley wheel to door hardware.
Set up the hardware as listed below:
(The 1 1/2″ screw could be shorter if desired.)
7. Place door in base track, then lift 1/4″ or add a spacer – you need bottom clearance for the door to glide.
Now place wheel (attached to flat bar) in track and see where everything lines up.
Use dimensions below as a guide:
Pre-drill holes in door front for remaining 2 washers and 3/4″ screws, then attach.
8. Repeat process for other side, making sure door is level.
9. Hang doors onto track.
The hex nut will allow you to adjust the tightness of the rolling wheel and enable you get past the middle screw head on the hanging track.
Pretty amazing, right? Jaime’s DIY Sliding Barn Door Console was one of our most popular projects during Creating with the Stars, so we’re pretty sure it will be popping up all over the place on other DIY blogs!
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